For wood & plywood

How to apply Wood Seal®

Block moisture. Fight termites. Protect wood.

For wooden door frames, window frames, partitions and plywood. Two coats on the faces that will sit against wall, concrete or flooring — on a frame, its outer edges and horns. The faces left on show stay bare.

  • 6 steps
  • 2 coats
  • Direct apply
  • Recoat 3–4 hrs
  • Hard dry 5–8 hrs

Applying Wood Seal, step by step

  1. A gloved hand wiping sawdust off a bare teak door frame on workshop trestles, a sanding block resting on it

    01 Step 1 of 6

    Surface preparation

    The film only bonds to bare, sound, dry timber. Anything left on the surface — dust, oil, grease, loose fibre — ends up trapped under the coating.

    • The wood must be clean and dry, free from dust, oil, grease and loose particles.

    • Sand back rough patches and old flaking finish, then wipe the dust off.

    • Never coat wet wood. Timber that has been rained on has to dry out first.

    • New or old timber both take the coating; the condition of the surface is what matters.

    Do not rush this — most failures start here

  2. An open 1 litre PRIME GUARD LACCO+ Wood Seal tin on a workbench, a stirring stick lifting a ribbon of the thick black coating out of it

    02 Step 2 of 6

    Stir well before use

    The protective solids settle while the tin stands. Stir from the bottom until the colour and the body are even the whole way through.

    • Stir thoroughly, lifting from the bottom of the tin, every time you start.

    • Do not thin it. WOOD SEAL is direct apply — no primer, no dilution.

    • A PRIME GUARD brush gives the best result.

    • Close the container tightly again as soon as you have what you need.

    Direct apply — no primer, no thinner

  3. A gloved hand brushing black Wood Seal along the outer edge of a teak door frame on trestles, its front face left bare

    03 Step 3 of 6

    Apply using brush or roller

    Straight onto the faces that will sit against the wall, an even coat with a brush or roller. Work to a visible wet edge so no strip of them gets missed.

    • Lay an even coat — flooding it on does not make it stronger.

    • Coat only the contact faces: the outer edges that sit against the masonry, and the horns.

    • Leave the front face and the faces around the opening bare; they stay on show.

    • Stop the coat in a clean line at each edge, and do not let it pool in the joints.

    First coat

  4. A teak door frame drying untouched on workshop trestles, black only along its outer edges and horns

    04 Step 4 of 6

    Allow to dry 3–4 hours

    Let the first coat go off properly before the second goes on. The tin's minimum recoat window is 2–3 hours; in Kerala humidity give it 3–4 and the second coat lays down better.

    • Keep the members out of rain, spray and settling dust while they dry.

    • Touch-test a hidden edge: it should be dry, not tacky, before you recoat.

    • Do not force-dry with heat; let it cure at its own pace.

    • Leave them on trestles so air reaches the coated faces.

    3–4 hrs before the second coat

  5. A gloved hand brushing a glossier second coat over the dried first coat on the outer edge of a teak door frame

    05 Step 5 of 6

    Apply the second coat

    The second coat is the one that closes the barrier. On timber it is not optional, and it goes on exactly like the first.

    • Same even coat, same brush or roller, on the same contact faces.

    • Walk the frame afterwards and check for thin spots, misses and dry edges.

    • Keep it off the faces that stay on show, as with the first coat.

    • This is what gives maximum protection — one coat is an unfinished job.

    Second coat

  6. A finished teak door frame standing upright, its front face bare and its outer edges and horns coated satin black, water beading on the coat

    06 Step 6 of 6

    Finished good

    Allow 5–8 hours for a hard dry and full cure. Then the frame can be fixed, finished or built against, and water beads off the coated faces instead of soaking in.

    • 5–8 hours for a hard dry before installation or finishing.

    • Water should sit up in beads on the coated faces, not spread and darken them.

    • The barrier stays breathable, so moisture already in the timber is not sealed in.

    • Store the remaining tin closed, cool, dry and out of direct sunlight.

    Hard dry 5–8 hrs

Reference

Timings & safety

Timings

Coats
2
Recoat after
3–4 hrs
Hard dry
5–8 hrs
Primer
None
Net content
1 Litre

Safety

  • Avoid contact with eyes and skin.
  • Wear goggles, a dust mask and gloves.
  • Do not breathe in vapour or spray.
  • Use in a well-ventilated area.
  • Keep out of reach of children.

Storage

  • Close the container tightly after use.
  • Store cool and dry, out of direct sunlight.
  • 24 months unopened, from the date of manufacture.
  • Coverage varies with surface condition, roughness and film thickness.
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